Extra Day

We've had a fun time this week, and decided to stay until Thursday. Since the only time we've gone to Daytona Beach has been during Bike Week, we thought it would be nice to see how it is as a "normal" town. I'm not saying that I'd like to be there during their normal tourist season -- that would be like being stuck in traffic in Myrtle Beach, something I avoid every summer.

The ride south to Daytona Beach down the A1A is really worth it. About 50 miles of two-lane, much of it with the ocean on your left as you pass through small towns separated by sandy patches with small palm trees. The temperature when we set out was a cool 55^o but promised to go up to the mid 60's by afternoon.

Yesterday morning I took a look at Google Map, and found a strange little park near the Matanzas Inlet called Fort Matanzas National Monument. It's on an island, and it didn't look like you could get to it at all -- no road appears to go anywhere near it. A street-view of the map shows an entrance off the A1A that we would pass, so I decided to take a side trip. You never know, right?

The story began in 1565 when the French attempted to attack Saint Augustine, sailing from Fort Caroline, a few miles north. A storm blew the ships off course and wrecked them, leaving a band of French sailors stranded south of Saint Augustine. General Pedro Menéndez de Aviles left Saint Augustine and attacked the undefended Fort Caroline, killing the soldiers and taking the fort. In the meantime, a band of Spanish soldiers marched south and found the refugees from the French fleet, and killed them. In fact, the name given to the "river" (actually an estuary), was Matanzas, spanish for "slaughters."

Move forward 175 years, and now the British are a threat. Then Florida Governor Montiano commissioned the building of Fort Matanzas in 1740 to protect the inlet, the "back door" to Saint Augustine. The small fort was completed in 1742.

The standard complement for the fort was 7 men, all that was needed to defend the inlet. As ships entered the estuary, a shot fired over their bow was usually enough to make them turn around. If a ship's captain was foolhardy enough to turn the ship to broadside (to fire their own cannon), they would not only create a large target to the fort's four cannons, but run the risk of running aground.

Warren G Harding is credited with wanting the fort restored, as he felt it was an important piece of American history. After his stroke, his wife (with the signature of his vice-president -- Calvin Coolidge) made his dream a reality. In 1924, Calvin Coolidge as president declared the small fort a national monument.

We took a chilly, 5-minute boat ride over to Rattlesnake Island and were treated to our own personal tour, as we were the first visitors of the morning. The staff out-numbered us, and as you can see, they hadn't even put up the flag yet. This is the back side of the fort.

Our ranger guide explained that originally, the fort was plastered and painted white, the single turret painted red. Over the years most of the plaster is gone, leaving only the brick. You can see from the next picture that the main floor stood high over the ground. The soldiers used a ladder to climb into the fort that they could pull in behind them, protecting them from Indians and other enemies.

The turret was not used to fire at approaching ships; the cannon served that purpose. It was mostly a decorative piece that identifies the structure as Spanish Architecture. In fact, the small port holes didn't even point at the inlet. They could be used to look along the outside of the wall to see if anyone was hiding there.

There are actually three floors on the structure: the main area where the soldiers lived and slept (and where the cannon were placed), the second floor where the commanding officer slept and the stores were kept, along with a powder room, and a ladder from there to the roof, where you get a wonderful view of the inlet and the ocean beyond.

After a short boat ride back (this time with the wind at our backs), we continued on our way to Daytona Beach. It was a neat discovery, and something more to add to our adventures. Take the time to look over the National Park Service web page on Fort Matanzas. It's an interesting tale.

Within an hour we were in Daytona. By this time of year, without the roar of the motorcycles and the throngs of people, the town almost appeared deserted, only a handful of people on the boardwalk.

Main Street, during Bike Week a constant parade of iron horses, and such, was quiet, although something was going on. After we passed, a motorcycle cop blocked the road; we're not sure what was happening, and didn't get to go back to look.

Across the river, Beach Street in Daytona proper was empty. With Bruce Rossmeyer Harley-Davidson moving out to Highway 1, much of the area is being torn down, and there was no traffic at all. Kinda creepy.

We didn't stay long, and headed back up I-95 to Saint Augustine. A light lunch a the Sunset Grill, then naps and a Chinese takeout for dinner. All in all a good day, if a quiet one.

We're headed back this morning (gonna wait until 9, hoping to miss rush hour in Jacksonville), and should be back in Florence by early afternoon.

Hope you enjoyed the adventure with us. Let me know what you think.